![]() I also called AudioControl to hear what they recommend when it comes to integrating the DSP. Tonight, I removed the B&O subwoofer enclosure behind the rear seat and scoped out the wiring from the B&O amplifier/ DSP. So, if you are thinking of swapping speakers for better sound, save your money. This is due to two things the factory B&O DSP and the Rockford speakers being under powered. I will comment here: after swapping all of the speakers, the sound was actually worse than factory. I had to drill out the Rockford speaker mounting holes to get the adapters to line up, but overall, it was an easy swap. I soldered all of my connections and used heat shrink to cover the wires back up. It was dark and about 12 degree's outside when I started the install, I was frozen and frustrated, so I didn't take any photos. $0.00 Metra 82-5605 Rear Speaker Adapters (Crutchfield Freebie)Īll of my parts were delivered on, I have replaced all of the factory speakers so far (only broke one clip and snapped one bolt ). ![]() $0.00 Metra 82-5607 Front Speaker Adapters (Crutchfield Freebie) ![]() $39.99 Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675X2 6-3/4" 2 Way Speakers (Rear Doors) $69.99 Rockford Fosgate Prime R1675-S 6/3/4" Component System (Front Doors & Pillars) $239.98 Rockford Fosgate P2D4-8 (x2) Subwoofers $112.49 Rockford Fosgate RFK4D Dual Amplifier Wiring Kit $60.98 Rockford Fosgate PLC2 (x2) Remote Level Controllers $349.99 Rockford Fosgate T400X4AD (Door Speakers) $539.99 AudioControl DM-608 Digital Signal Processor) I was running a PAC line Converter, 5 channel amplifier, Kappa door speakers front and rear (not component), and a 10" subwoofer in a sealed center console enclosure.įor some people the B&O system my be good enough, for the other 99.9% that want to upgrade, here's my parts list from. Let me say, it will be very hard to go back to any factory stereo after my last truck. My last truck was a 2009 XLT that I installed a complete Infinity Kappa sound system in. If I had to guess, I would say about a quarter of the frequencies heard by the human ear are being eliminated by the B&O signal processor so the cheap paper speakers can better handle music. This is by far the worst sounding "premium" stereo system I have ever owned or even heard. I bought it one day before I left on a 650 mile drive to Tampa Florida from Asheville North Carolina (figured it would make the drive more comfy )Ībout half way through the trip, I had had enough, reached up to the dash and turned the radio off. I didn't find much info so I figured I would join and post a thread on how I wired the truck and how it sounds.įirst let me say, I have had this truck for 10 days. New member to the Ecoboost forum, but I've been trolling the threads for a looking to see if anyone had replaced the B&O stereo system in the 2018 model trucks. No resistors are needed for subwoofer channel or 3 channels that run off of the factory head unit. If you are adding amplification for mids and highs, you will also need to install resistors to the wires between the factory amp and DSP. There are 2 channels since it's a DVC sub. If you are just adding an aftermarket subwoofer and amplifier to your stock system, you will tap directly off of the subwoofer outputs on the factory amplifier. If you do not run all channels through Your DSP, you will experience some major time alignment issues. The pillar tweeters and center channel are ran directly off of the factory head unit, the front door speakers, rear door speakers, and subwoofer are ran off of the factory amplifier. The high frequencies for your tweeters can only be found by tapping the factory pillar tweeters directly. ![]() The reason for this is that the factory audio is major hacked. You need a 6 input DSP minimum, but I would buy an 8 input DSP like the audiocontrol DM-810 ideally. Just so you know prior to installing, a LC7i or similar DSP will not work in this truck.
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